fill  I  ») 


mm 


mm 


i 

i  1 

!!!|i:;ii!:i.: 

,ii:;j;-;>ii;^ 

PILGRIMAGE 

OF  THB 

CHICAGO  COMMERCIAL 
CLUB 


HISTORY  OF   THE 
PILGRIMAGE 


CHICAGO  COMMERCIAL 
CLUB 

TO 

CENTRES  OF  WESTERN 
COMMERCE 


UNIVERSITY 


CHICAGO 

R.  R.  DONNELLEY  &  SONS  CO. 

1901 


¥'3^5 
.C4 


&«i" 


.^ 


.^.-^ 


■^•^ 


£^-r__/;^-''« 


^^s^ 


PREFATORY 


8553G 


PREFATORY 

The  first  suggestion  of  the  trip,  the 
history  of  which  appears  in  the  following 
pages,  was  made  to  the  Secretary  of  this 
Club  by  Mr.  Edward  P.  Ripley,  Presi- 
dent of  the  Atchison,  Topeka  and  Santa 
Fe  Railway  Company,  in  June  last,  while 
riding  in  a  coach  from  Gloucester  to  the 
Essex  County  Club  as  guests  of  the  Bos- 
ton Club. 

Mr.  Ripley  said  that  he  intended  to 
extend  an  invitation  to  the  members  of 
the  Club  to  go  to  California  in  the  spring 
of  this  year,  March  or  April.  The  Sec- 
retary replied  that  he  feared  that  it  would 
be  a  difficult  matter  to  induce  a  sufficient 
number  of  members  to  leave  business  for 
three  weeks,  but  that  it  would  certainly  be 
very  enjoyable. 


On  the  first  of  November  the  follow- 
ing letter  was  received  by  him: 

Dear  Sir:  The  undersigned,  in  behalf  of 
the  respective  companies  they  represent,  hereby 
invite  the  members  of  the  Commercial  Club  to 
visit  California,  leaving  Chicago  on  or  about 
March  ist,  and  being  absent  about  three  weeks, 
details  to  be  arranged  later. 

Will  you  kindly  transmit  this  invitation  to 
the  Club  at  its  next  meeting  ?  It  is  believed 
that  the  growth  of  the  trade  with  the  Orient, 
and  the  consequent  development  of  the  Pacific 
Coast  cities,  makes  this  a  particularly  opportune 
time  for  the  members  of  the  Commercial  Club 
to  acquaint  themselves  with  this  section  of  the 
country. 
For  the  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  R*y  Co., 

E.  P.  Ripley. 
For  Chicago  &  Northwestern  Railway  Co., 
Marvin  Hughitt. 

Subsequently  a  letter  of  like  nature  was 
received  from  Mr.  H.  G.  Burt,  President 
of  the  Union  Pacific  Railroad  Company. 

At  a  regular  meeting  of  the  Club,  held 


November  24th,  these  letters  were  read 
and  referred  to  the  Executive  Committee 
for  the  purpose  of  ascertaining  how  many 
would  go. 

The  committee  reported  at  the  Feb- 
ruary meeting,  and  a  sufficient  number 
having  replied  in  the  affirmative,  it  was 
decided  to  accept  the  invitations. 

In  the  meantime  presidents  of  other 
railway  companies  had  also  extended  in- 
vitations, completing  the  circuit  from  Chi- 
cago to  California,  via : 

The   Atchison,    Topeka  ^  Santa  Fe  Railway    Co. 
Santa  Fe,  Prescott  ^  Phoenix  Railway   Co. 
Southern   Pacific   Company. 

Northern  Pacific  Railway  Co. 

The  Oregon   R.   R.   ^   Navigation   Co. 
Oregon  Short  Line  R.  R.   Co. 

Rio  Grande  Western  Railway    Co. 
Denver  ^  Rio  Grande  Railroad  Co. 
Union  Pacific  Railroad  Co. 

Chicago    ^    Northwestern  Railway    Co. 

Colonel  Robert  C.  Clowry,  Vice-Presi- 
dent of  the  Western   Union  Telegraph 


Company,  and  W.  J.  Capen,  Esq.,  Super- 
intendent of  the  Postal  Telegraph-Cable 
Company,  both  tendered  the  use  of  their 
lines  for  the  free  transmission  of  family 
and  social  messages. 

Our  hosts  arranged  all  the  details,  and 
we  had  no  cares  whatever  except  to  reply 
to  the  numerous  telegrams  received  from 
committees  having  charge  of  entertain- 
ments given  in  the  several  places  visited. 

At  the  suggestion  of  Mr.  Ripley,  the 
Boston,  Cincinnati,  and  St.  Louis  clubs 
were  invited  to  select  two  each  of  their 
members  to  accompany  us,  and  this  invita- 
tion was  accepted. 

That  they  thoroughly  enjoyed  the  ex- 
cursion is  proven  by  the  following  resolu- 
tions adopted  by  the  several  clubs : 

BOSTON  COMMERCIAL  CLUB. 

Resolved^  That  the  Executive  Committee  of 
the  Boston  Commercial  Club  desires  to  express 
its  warmest  appreciation  for  the  charming 
courtesies  extended  to  their  fellow  members, 

12 


Messrs.  Carpenter  and  Burnett,  by  the  Chicago 
Commercial  Club  and  its  members  on  the  recent 
trip  to  the  Pacific  Coast. 

CINCINNATI   COMMERCIAL  CLUB. 

Resolved^  Upon  hearing  the  report  of  Messrs. 
Goshorn  and  Worthington,  our  representatives 
accredited  to  be  with  the  Chicago  Commercial 
Club  on  their  recent  trip  to  the  Pacific  Coast, 
that  our  most  sincere  and  hearty  thanks  are 
owing  and  given  to  that  Club  for  the  invitation 
to  this  Club  to  be  represented  on  that  occasion, 
and  for  the  kindly  welcome  and  courteous  atten- 
tions given  to  our  representatives. 

Resolved  further^  that  we  congratulate  the 
Chicago  Commercial  Club  on  the  conception 
and  execution  of  the  design  of  this  journey.  In 
both  respects  it  is  and  doubtless  will  be  truly 
unique.  The  Chicago  Commercial  Club  is 
most  fortunate  in  having  among  its  members 
men  able  to  secure  for  the  Club  the  privileges 
of  a  journey  of  almost  8,000  miles  through  such 
varied  and  interesting  country,  and  this  with  a 
solid  train  equipped  and  served  with  all  comforts 
conceivable  as  consistent  with  travel,  and  to 
plan  the  details  of  such  a  trip,  and  secure  their 
13 


execution  that  no  time  was  wasted,  no  space 
re-traveled,  but  every  moment  spent  to  the  best 
advantage. 

Through  the  Club,  to  their  associates  and 
assistants  in  this  enterprise,  not  merely  to  the 
members  participating  in  the  journey,  but  to  the 
companies  and  individuals  by  whose  aid  and 
kindness  it  was  made  such  a  success,  we  for 
and  in  behalf  of  our  representatives  also  extend 
our  thanks. 

Walter  H.  Field, 

Secretary. 

ST.  LOUIS  COMMERCIAL    CLUB. 

The  Commercial  Club  of  St.  Louis,  having 
received  an  invitation  from  the  Chicago  Com- 
mercial Club  to  send  two  representatives  to 
accompany  its  members  on  a  trip  to  the  western 
coast,  and  having  learned  from  our  representa- 
tives that  the  trip  was  one  replete  with  interest 
and  a  source  of  great  profit  and  pleasure  to  those 
who  made  it,  therefore. 

Be  it  Resolved^  that  we  extend  our  thanks  to 

the  members  of  the  Chicago  Commercial  Club 

for  the    invitation    given  and    for    the    cordial 

hospitality  and   thoughtful  courtesies  shown  our 

14 


representatives,  which  we  accept  as  a  compli- 
ment to  the  entire  Club  and  consider  it  further 
evidence  of  the  good  fellowship  towards  us  that 
has  been  manifested  in  many  ways  in  the  past, 
and  which  we  most  heartily  reciprocate. 

H.  N.  Davis, 

Secretary. 

The  following  members  of  the  Chicago 
Commercial  Club  composed  the  party- 
making  the  trip: 

Baker,  William  T.        -  -  Temple  Building 

Bartlett,  Adolphus  C. 

Vice-Prest.  Hibbard,  Spencer,  Bartlett  &  Co. 
Bradley,  J.  Harley,  Prest.  David  Bradley  Mfg.  Co. 
Butler,  Edward  B.  -  -  -  Butler  Bros. 
Gary,  Eugene  -  Mgr.  German -American  Ins.  Co. 
Chalmers,  William  J.  -  Prest.  Eraser  &  Chalmers 
Clark,  John  M.  -  Prest.  Chicago  Telephone  Co. 
Eckels,  James  H.  Prest.  Commercial  NatM  Bank 

Farwell,  John  V.,  Jr.  Treas.  J.  V.  Farwell  &  Co. 
Field,  Marshall       -  -        Marshall  Field  &  Co. 

Fuller,  William  A.        -  Palmer,  Fuller  &  Co. 

Glessner,  John  J. 

V. -Prest.  Warder,  Bushnell  &  Glessner 
Head,  Franklin  H.  -  i6o  Washington  St. 

15 


HoTz,  Christoph       -  -  Schuttler  &  Hotz 

Janes,  John  J.  -         -         -  Moore  &  Janes 

Keyes,  Rollin  a.  -  Franklin  MacVeagh  &  Co. 
Keith,  Elbridge  G.  Prest.  Metropolitan  Nat*l  Bank 
Kimball,  Charles  F. 

Prest.  and  Treas.  C.  P.  Kimball  &  Co. 
Lincoln,  Robert  T,  Prest.  Pullman  Palace  Car  Co. 
MacFarland,  Henry  J.  -  M.  D.  Wells  &  Co. 
Nelson,  Murry         -  Of  Murry  Nelson  &  Co. 

Ripley,  Edward  P.  Prest.  A.,  T.  &  S.  F.  R*y 

Smith,  Byron  L.  -  Prest.  Northern  Trust  Co. 
Sprague,  Albert  A.  -  Sprague,  Warner  &  Co. 
Swift,  Louis  F.         -  Vice-Prest.  Swift  &  Co. 

Walker,  George  C.  -  -  Real  Estate 

They  were  accompanied   by  the  fol- 
lowing guests: 

COMMERCIAL    CLUB    OF    BOSTON. 

Robert    M.   Burnett, 

President  Joseph  Burnett  Co.,  Manufacturing 

Chemists. 

Frederick   B.  Carpenter, 
Geo.  O.  Carpenter  &  Son. 


i6 


COMMERCIAL  CLUB  OF  CINCIN- 
NATL 

Edwin  C.   Goshorn, 
Manager  National  Lead  Co. 

William    Worthington, 
Attorney  at  Law. 

COMMERCIAL  CLUB   OF  ST.  LOUIS. 

Isaac    W.    Morton, 
Director  Simmons  Hardware  Co. 

H.  N.   Davis, 
President  Smith  &  Davis  Manufacturing  Co. 

Chicago: 

E.  C.  Dudley,  M.  D. 

Arthur  T.   Caton, 
Prest.  Chicago  Club. 

Major-General  Wesley  Merritt,  U.   S.  A. 

Shortly  before  reaching  Chicago  a  reso- 
lution was  adopted  that  the  President  of 
the   Club  appoint  a  committee  of  five   to 

17 


prepare  a  history  of  the  trip,  and  the 
following  were  appointed  as  such  com- 
mittee : 

George  C.  Walker, 

Chairman. 
Franklin  H.  Head, 
Historian. 
C.  Fred  Kimball. 
RoLLiN  A.  Keyes. 
John  James  Janes, 

Secretary. 

For  the  pictures  illustrating  the  various 
incidents  and  locations  on  the  trip,  we  are 
indebted  to  Mr.  Edward  B.  Butler,  of  Chi- 
cago, and  Mr.  Frederick  B.  Carpenter,  of 
Boston. 


x8 


HISTORICAL 


HISTORICAL 

At  eight  o'clock  on  the  evening  of 
March  4,  1901,  the  excursion  party  of 
the  Commercial  Club  and  its  guests  met 
'at  the  Polk  Street  Station  of  the  Santa 
Fe  road.  The  party  came  mostly  in  car- 
riages, accompanied  by  some  members  of 
their  families,  but  the  good-bys  were  ex- 
changed in  the  carriages  in  front  of  the 
station,  as  it  had  been  decided  by  the  Ex- 
ecutive Committee  that  were  the  farewells 
exchanged  in  the  station,  the  weeping 
caused  as  the  wives  or  daughters  parted 
with  their  husbands  or  fathers,  when  they 
were  entering  upon  a  journey  which  all 
realized  would  be  full  of  unseen  dangers 
and  perils,  would  have  a  depressing  effect 
upon  the  members  of  the  party  and  cast 
a  shadow  over  the  beginning  of  the  trip. 
21 


This  is  but  one  example  out  of  many  of 
the  thoughtful  watchfulness  of  President 
Fuller  and  his  Executive  Committee  in 
guarding  against  any  possible  occurrence 
which  might  mar  the  pleasure  of  the 
journey. 

On  entering  the  train  each  person  found 
his  hand  luggage  already  in  his  section, 
without  the  omission  or  error  in  the  loca- 
tion of  a  single  article.  This  was  charac- 
teristic of  the  care  over  the  baggage  exer- 
cised by  Mr.  Ahern  during  the  entire 
trip,  as  at  each  hotel  where  the  party 
stopped  every  article  of  baggage  was  found 
in  the  room  assigned  to  the  member,  and 
upon  again  entering  the  train,  every  article 
was  found  in  its  proper  section.  After 
this  had  happened  once  or  twice  a  notice- 
able cheerfulness  pervaded  the  party  at 
every  change,  since  the  members,  in  view 
of  expected  social  delights,  usually  had 
with  them  their  most  expensive  suits  of 
clothes,  the  loss  of  which  would  have  sad- 
dened the  entire  pilgrimage. 

22 


ON   THE  ARIZONA   DESERT 


Early  in  the  morning  of  the  5  th  the 
party  passed  through  Kansas  City,  and 
the  next  twenty-four  hours  were  without 
especial  incident.  Our  genial  friend  Mr. 
Eckels  was  discovered  in  a  lounging  posi- 
tion, reading  a  novel  entitled  "  The  Shadow 
of  a  Man,"  and  was  promptly  accused  by 
Mr.  Keyes  of  gloating  over  his  autobiog- 
raphy, but  upon  his  explaining  the  char- 
acter of  the  story,  his  course  was  vindicated 
and  the  incident  passed  without  unpleasant 
consequences. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  sixth  of  March, 
after  leaving  one  of  the  stopping  places,  a 
telegram  was  handed  to  President  Fuller, 
of  which  the  following  is  a  copy : 

Chicago,  March  6,  190 1. 
President  Chicago  Commercial  Club, 
En  route. 
I  have  just  received  following  telegram  from 
Peter  Jackson,  Sheriff  at  Williams,  Ariz. 

'* About  two  weeks   ago  a  stranger,  evidently  a 
desperado,    made    his    appearance    here,    and    soon 
gathered   about  him   all    the    tough    element  in  the 
29 


county.  He  spends  money  freely,  always  oiFering 
twenty  dollar  gold  pieces.  I  became  suspicious, 
organized  a  posse,  tracked  and  arrested  the  entire 
party  to-day.  On  the  leader,  who  proves  to  be  Pat 
Crowe,  we  found  papers  which  give  details  of  a  plot 
to  kidnap  the  entire  Commercial  Club  party  at  the 
rim  of  the  Grand  Canon  and  hold  for  ransom. 
Marshall  Field  was  to  be  held  for  ^500,000,  Robert 
Lincoln  at  ^100,000,  Byron  Smith  at  ^50,000,  and 
;^5o,ooo  for  the  balance  of  lot.  If  money  was  not 
paid  in  twenty-four  hours  the  entire  party  were  to  be 
thrown  over  the  rim  of  the  Canon,  at  a  point  where 
the  perpendicular  drop  is  five  thousand  feet.  I  have 
the  wretches  in  jail  and  await  instructions." 

I  have   given  this    item   to   the   Associated 
Press. 

H.  H.  KOHLSAAT. 

Great  excitement  was  created  by  the 
reading  of  this  dispatch  and  a  feeling  of 
indignation  was  exhibited  among  the  mem- 
bers of  the  party  who  were  not  especially 
named  in  the  despatch,  at  being  thus 
classified  as  a  "job  lot "  to  be  released  at 
bargain  counter  prices  !  After  a  time  the 
telegram  was  shown  to  President  Ripley, 
30 


l9tJ^ 


\.^. 


( 


'4  I' 


l^ 


who  upon  examining  it,  with  a  sagacity- 
worthy  of  Sherlock  Holmes,  announced 
that  from  the  absence  of  certain  cabalistic 
signs  upon  the  despatch  he  was  able  to 
state  that  it  had  not  come  over  the  tele- 
graph wires,  but  was  the  malicious  concoc- 
tion of  some  person  upon  the  train.  Prior 
to  this  discovery,  however,  a  carefully 
prepared  answer  to  the  telegram  had  been 
written  by  Mr.  William  T.  Baker,  signed 
by  Mr.  Fuller,  and  handed  to  the  operator, 
but  after  the  verdict  of  Mr.  Ripley  the 
answer  was  suppressed.  It  was  consider- 
ably discussed  during  the  day  as  to  who 
was  the  author  of  this  despatch  purporting 
to  come  from  Mr.  Kohlsaat,  and  the  gen- 
eral feeling  was  that  Mr.  Marshall  Field, 
whose  fondness  for  a  practical  joke  was 
well  known,  was  the  guilty  party,  but  the 
matter  has  not  yet  been  positively  settled, 
and  the  mystery  will  probably  remain  for- 
ever unsolved,  like  the  identity  of  the  man 
with  an  iron  mask. 

On  reaching   Ash    Fork   early  in  the 
33 


morning  of  the  7th,  the  party  left  the  main 
line  of  the  Santa  Fe  and  took  the  road  for 
Phoenix,  Arizona.  A  stop  of  an  hour  or 
thereabouts  was  made  at  Prescott,  for  the 
purpose  of  allowing  Mr.  Murry  Nelson 
to  embrace  his  recently  married  daughter, 
Mrs.  Wallace  Fairbank.  The  members 
of  the  party  greeted  the  bride  and  groom 
with  much  enthusiasm,  and  the  general 
feeling  seemed  to  be  that  each  of  them  had 
been  greatly  improved  in  health  and  con- 
versational skill  by  their  location  in  Pres- 
cott, where  they  could  mingle  in  the  best 
society  of  this  representative  frontier 
town. 

One  of  the  members  of  the  party,  Mr. 
J.  Harley  Bradley,  here  took  the  barber's 
chair  just  after  it  was  vacated  by  Mr. 
Marshall  Field.  Said  the  new  occupant: 
"You  have  just  finished  with  Mr.  Field?" 
"Yes,"  replied  the  barber.  "I  have 
known  Mr.  Field  by  sight  for  a  long  time, 
having  seen  him  on  the  street  in  Chicago 
and  have  also  patronized  him  by  trading 
34 


THE  THREE  GRACES,   ARIZONA 


at  his  store,  but  I  have  never  before  met 
him  socially." 

The  train  was  next  taken  to  the  Con- 
gress mine,  a  gold  and  silver  property- 
owned  largely  by  Mr.  N.  K.  Fairbank,  of 
Chicago.  Mr.  E.  B.  Gage,  the  superin- 
tendent of  the  mine,  was  in  charge  of  the 
excursion,  and  the  members  of  the  party 
were  greatly  interested  in  viewing  the 
property,  many  of  them  riding  down  an 
incline  some  three  thousand  feet  into  the 
bowels  of  the  earth  and  seeing  the  oper- 
ation of  extracting  the  ore,  after  which  the 
extensive  and  up-to-date  reduction  works 
were  visited  and  the  processes  explained 
by  Mr.  Gage.  Mr.  Gage  had  been  intro- 
duced, of  course,  to  the  different  members 
of  the  party,  and  in  one  of  the  deep  pits 
he  led  Judge  Worthington  of  Cincinnati, 
aside  to  view  an  enormous  Worthington 
pump,  and  warmly  congratulated  the  Judge 
upon  his  work  as  a  manufacturer  of 
undoubtedly  the  most  valuable  steam 
pump  for  certain  purposes  yet  manufac- 
37 


tured  in  America.  The  Judge  bore  these 
congratulations  with  becoming  humility 
and  continued  to  be  the  same  genial  and 
companionable  gentleman  with  all  the 
members  of  the  party  as  before  being  thus 
selected  for  special  congratulatory  honors. 
When  this  episode  was  explained  to  Mr. 
William  J.  Chalmers,  the  manufacturer 
of  the  most  of  the  superb  machinery  about 
the  mine,  his  feelings  were  somewhat  hurt, 
and  he  proceeded  with  some  bitterness  to 
explain  the  points  wherein  the  steam 
pumps  manufactured  by  himself  were 
superior  to  the  other,  but  before  the  dis- 
cussion reached  the  ears  of  Judge  Worth- 
ington,  Mr.  Chalmers  was  induced  to 
discontinue  the  canvass  of  the  respective 
merits  of  the  pumps  in  the  interest  of 
harmony,  and  no  ill  feeling  resulted  from 
the  incident. 

Resuming    our    journey    we    reached 

Phoenix  late  in  the  afternoon  of  March 

7th,  and  spent   the   night   on    the  train. 

Before   retiring   several    of  the   younger 

38 


Y 


< 


members  of  the  Club  visited  the  part  of 
the  village  which  was  running  wide  open, 
where  they  were  welcomed  to  the  privileges 
of  the  gambling  and  dance  houses  with 
true  Western  hospitality.  The  high  char- 
acter of  the  members  of  the  Commercial 
Club  had  evidently  preceded  them,  as  at 
the  public  dance  houses,  the  young  ladies 
waived  introductions  and  other  formalities 
toward  such  of  the  visitors  as  wished  to 
participate  in  the  waltzes. 

At  the  Palace  Saloon  two  of  our  party 
who  posed  as  connoiseurs  in  music  were 
especially  pleased  with  the  singing  of  a 
young  lady  of  doubtful  age,  weighing 
about  two  hundred  and  fifty  pounds,  who 
presided  at  the  piano  and  sang  in  a  robust 
and  voluminous  voice  "The  Holy  City." 
Late  that  evening  after  everyone  in  car 
One  had  retired,  all  were  prevented  from 
sleeping  by  an  acrimonious  dispute 
between  the  two  connoiseurs,  Messrs. 
Ripley  and  Eckels,  as  to  whether  this 
lady's  voice  was  a  baritone  or  a  contralto. 
41 


This  question  has  not  yet  been  satisfac- 
torily settled.  When  the  disputants 
paused  from  sheer  fatigue  the  suffering 
passengers  were  grateful  for  an  opportunity 
to  sleep  for  the  brief  remainder  of  the 
night. 

After  breakfast  the  next  morning  a  large 
committee  of  citizens  with  carriages  came 
to  the  station.  Among  the  committee 
was  Major  Pickands  of  Chicago,  who  has 
a  winter  home  at  Phoenix.  Mr.  A.  C. 
Bartlett  and  his  son-in-law,  Mr.  Heard, 
here  joined  the  party  and  some  hours 
were  spent  in  driving  through  the  city  and 
about  the  country  among  the  orchards  and 
the  vast  fields  of  alfalfa.  The  famous 
Indian  school  was  visited,  where  some 
seven  hundred  Indian  children  are  receiv- 
ing an  education  at  Goverment  expense. 
The  children  were  from  five  to  twenty 
years  of  age,  and  were  drawn  up  on  both 
sides  of  a  long  avenue  through  which  the 
party  was  driven,  and  we  were  thus  given 
an  opportunity  to  study  carefully  the 
42 


appearance  of  the  youthful  Indians.  From 
the  older  children  a  good  military  band 
had  been  organized,  and  following  it  the 
children  were  marched  to  the  parade 
grounds  and  put  through  the  various 
evolutions  of  a  regimental  drill. 

The  Indian  children  were  of  two  distinct 
classes;  about  one-half  were  from  the  wild 
tribes  of  the  mountains,  unaccustomed  to 
intercourse  with  the  whites;  the  others, 
from  the  bands  which  had  for  several  gen- 
erations lived  about  the  Spanish  Jesuit 
missions  in  different  parts  of  the  Western 
country.  A  most  noticeable  effect  of  this 
intercourse  with  more  civilized  races  was 
visible  in  the  fact  that  the  mission  Indians, 
as  a  rule,  were  several  shades  lighter  in 
complexion  than  their  more  barbarous 
confreres,  many  of  these  Indian  children 
being  scarcely  of  darker  complexion  than 
the  average  Spaniard. 

Before  reaching  Phoenix  it  had  been 
announced  that  Mr.  Murphy,  the  Gov- 
ernor of  Arizona,  would  be  happy  to 
45 


receive  the  party  at  his  office  in  the  State 
capital.  We  realized,  of  course,  that  he 
would  make  a  speech  welcoming  us  to  the 
capital  of  the  State,  and  in  order  that  a 
suitable  response  should  be  made  on  the 
part  of  the  Club,  Mr.  William  T.  Baker 
was  chosen  as  orator,  and  spent  his  leisure 
hours  for  three  days  before  the  arrival  at 
Phoenix  in  preparing  a  speech  that  would 
reflect  credit  at  once  upon  the  Club  and  its 
chosen  oratorical  representative.  The  party 
called  upon  the  Governor  at  the  capital 
building  as  planned,  and,  after  having  been 
presented  to  him,  ranged  themselves  about 
the  room  in  a  listening  attitude  for  his  ad- 
dress of  welcome.  The  Governor,  in  a 
clear  voice  and  unhesitating  manner,  said: 
"  Gentlemen,  have  some  cigars."  This 
closed  his  address,  and  as  Mr.  Baker's 
carefully  prepared  speech  contained  many 
references  to  the  cordiality  of  the  Gov- 
ernor's welcome,  to  his  high  appreciation 
of  the  character  and  enormous  wealth  of 
the  visitors,  and  to  his  kindness  in  arrang- 
46 


MR.  WALKER'S   FIRST  HEROIC   EFFORT  AT  THE 
RIM  OF  THE  CAf^ON 


UtBRA)^ 


UNIVERSITY 


ing  for  our  comfort  while  in  Phoenix,  the 
speech,  under  the  circumstances,  seemed 
a  misfit  and  its  delivery  was  therefore 
postponed  to  a  more  suitable  occasion. 
Manuscript  copies  of  this  speech  will  be 
furnished  to  members  of  the  party  upon 
written  application  to  Mr.  Baker. 

Shortly  after  noon  the  party  met  at  the 
home  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Heard  where  a 
tasteful  luncheon  was  served.  As  Mr. 
Bartlett*s  daughter,  Mrs.  Heard  had  been 
known  to  most  of  the  party  before  her 
marriage,  and  her  gracious  hospitality  was 
greatly  enjoyed  by  her  guests.  Such  hos- 
pitality, however,  was  not  unexpected,  as 
it  must  have  been  inevitable  in  case  there 
is  anything  in  the  doctrine  of  heredity. 
After  luncheon,  the  party  proceeded  to  a 
park,  where  the  entertainment  committee, 
the  chairman  of  which  was  Mr.  Heard, 
had  prepared  a  unique  entertainment  for 
the  visiting  clubmen.  The  first  number 
upon  the  programme  was  an  exhibition  of 
"bronco    busting,"    in    comparison   with 

49 


which  the  "bronco  busting"  exhibitions 
of  Buffalo  Bill  were  insipid  and  as  milk 
for  babes.  Mr.  James  H.  Eckels  was 
designated  by  the  committee  to  announce 
to  the  contestants  the  prizes  which  were 
offered  them  by  the  people  of  Phoenix, 
and  was  authorized  also  to  add  to  these 
prizes  two  hundred  dollars  from  the  Com- 
mercial Club,  a  portion  of  which  was  to  go 
in  consolation  prizes  to  the  least  fortunate 
of  the  contestants.  After  the  exhibition 
of  "bronco  busting"  was  to  come  a  trial  in 
*' steer  tying."  Mr.  Eckels'  preliminary 
announcement  was  in  his  happiest  vein; 
his  statement  that  he  was  the  "only  all- 
around  dead  game  sport "  of  the  Com- 
mercial Clubj  was  received  with  applause, 
and  when  he  reversed  the  order  of  the 
words  so  that  "steer  tying"  became  "tie 
steering,"  he  was  conceded  to  have  added 
a  new  term  to  the  vocabulary  of  the  frontier 
cowboy.  The  "bronco  busting"  where 
the  broncos  were  perfectly  wild  from  the 
ranch,  was  a  great  success.  One  famous 
50 


m 


INDIAN   DUDES 


•r  TUK 

UNIVERSITY 


cowboy  rider  was  unhorsed,  but  imme- 
diately in  a  loud  voice  announced  that  he 
had  one  hundred  dollars  which  he  was 
ready  to  put  up  against  any  man  in  Ari- 
zona in  a  bronco  busting  contest,  and  that 
his  lack  of  success  illustrated  the  truth  of 
the  cowboy  axiom 

"They  ain't  no  man  what  can't  be  throwM, 
An'  they  ain't  no  boss  what  can't  be  rode." 

In  one  case  where  the  lassoing  and  tying  of 
a  steer  was  complete  in  thirty-three  seconds, 
the  lowest  record  of  Arizona  was  closely 
approximated;  such  lowest  record  being 
twenty-nine  seconds.  The  longest  time 
in  the  steer  tying  contest  was  three  and  a 
half  minutes,  and  great  satisfaction  was 
expressed  by  the  audience  when  the  lead- 
ing consolation  prize  was  awarded  to  this 
rider,  who  was  thrown  from  his  horse, 
caught  up  his  lasso  and  remounted,  broke 
his  lasso  in  endeavoring  to  throw  the 
steer,  and  then  caught  the  vicious  animal 
by  his  tail,  and  after  being  dragged  several 
S3 


times  about  the  arena,  succeeded  in  throw- 
ing and  tying  his  steer  in  the  time  named. 

From  the  park  the  travelers  were  driven 
by  the  entertainment  committee  to  the 
special  train.  On  the  way,  Mr.  Burnett 
of  Boston,  in  his  affable  and  gracious  man- 
ner, thanked  the  local  committee  man  with 
whom  he  was  riding,  for  the  many  hospi- 
talities received  at  their  hands.  The 
committee  man,  thinking  Mr.  Burnett, 
from  his  gentlemanly  manner  was  a 
Chicago  man,  responded:  "We  are 
always  glad  to  entertain  people  from 
Chicago;  they  appreciate  our  efforts  and 
seem  more  like  our  own  people;  but  we 
do  not  care  for  New  Yorkers,  and  have  no 
use  at  all  for  those  stiff,  stuck  up,  damned 
Bostonians!" 

Mr.  A.  C.  Bartlett  accompanied  the 
party  upon  its  departure  from  Phoenix, 
and  the  next  day  the  tourists  proceeded  to 
the  Grand  Canon  of  the  Colorado.  The 
border  of  the  Canon  was  reached  on  time 
after  a  pleasant  ride  from  Williams  by  rail 

54 


\  »  ^^  A  .^  7 
TJNIVEKSXTY 
^^CALlFOft!i> 


and  stage,  and  a  walk  of  two  or  three 
miles  to  the  edge  of  the  Canon.  Of  the 
view  of  the  Canon,  nothing  will  be  said 
here,  as  an  adequate  description  is  impos- 
sible and  the  members  of  the  party  will 
hereafter  spend  much  of  their  time  in 
advising  their  friends  and  acquaintances  to 
take  the  Santa  Fe  road  to  this  point  and 
have  a  view  of  one  of  the  world's  greatest 
wonders.  Some  of  the  visitors  expressed 
a  wish  to  descend  into  the  great  Canon 
and  Mr.  Bartlett  volunteered  to  pilot 
them  to  an  easy  trail  near  the  hotel,  where 
the  descent  could  readily  be  made,  but 
after  searching  for  some  time  unsuccess- 
fully, he  admitted  that  he  must  have  been 
thinking  of  a  trail  in  some  other  canon, 
probably  the  one  at  the  summer  home  of 
his  friend  John  McGregor  Adams  at 
Lake  Forest. 

Several  members  of  the  excursion  party 

were    expert   golfers,    but    of  these    Mr. 

George  C.  Walker  was  the  recognized  and 

unquestioned  champion.     For  some  days 

57 


before  reaching  the  Canon  he  had  been 
examining  his  golf  apparatus  to  be  sure 
that  everything  was  in  perfect  condition. 
He  explained  to  the  party  that  the  longest 
drive  ever  made  by  anyone,  strictly  speak- 
ing, was  about  two  hundred  and  fifty 
yards,  but  that  in  one  instance  a  record  of 
three  hundred  and  fifty  yards  had  been 
claimed  where  the  ball  after  striking  the 
ground  had  rolled  some  distance  down  the 
side  of  a  steep  hill.  Mr.  Walker  announced 
his  determination  upon  reaching  the  Canon 
to  make  a  drive  which  should  make  him 
the  champion,  not  of  America  alone,  but 
of  the  entire  world.  When  the  brink  of 
the  Canon  was  reached  the  members  of 
the  party  stood  about  in  a  semi-circle  and 
watched  the  proceedings  of  Mr.  Walker. 
He  placed  his  ball  in  the  proper  position, 
made  all  the  preliminary  swings,  and  pre- 
pared for  his  final  effort.  H  is  face  exhibited 
the  fierce  determination  of  Napoleon  before 
the  battle  of  Austerlitz;  the  muscles  of 
his  arms  stood  out  like  whip  cords  and  a 
58 


EN   ROUTE   };\     -I  AOE  TO  THE  GRAND  CAfJON 


UNIVERSITY 
CALIFOjJ 


most  tremendous  blow  was  delivered. 
About  two  quarts  of  gravel  flew  in  various 
directions,  giving  the  members  nearest  him 
what  might  be  called  a  gravel  baptism,  and 
the  ball  rolled  off  at  right  angles  to  the 
blow  delivered,  a  distance  of  two  feet  and 
nine  inches,  where  it  rested.  In  no  way 
discouraged  by  the  ill  success  of  his  first 
shot,  Mr.  Walker  again  made  the  same 
preparations,  having  first  removed  nearly 
all  of  his  clothing,  and  with  the  same  grim 
determination  aimed  another  terrific  blow 
at  the  ball.  Four  or  Hvq  balls  were  struck 
in  rapid  succession  until  a  blow  was  deliv- 
ered which  Mr.  Walker  recognized  as  in 
every  way  a  success,  and  as  measuring  his 
fullest  strength  and  expertness.  The 
members  of  the  Club  were  now  standing 
at  the  verge  of  the  Canon  watching  the 
flying  balls,  and  after  Mr.  Walker's  final 
effort,  a  vote  was  taken  and  by  the  unani- 
mous verdict  of  the  Club,  Mr.  Walker  was 
decided  to  have  driven  the  ball  a  distance 
of  two  thousand  yards,  a  feat  which  will 

6i 


.srrxj 


probably  remain  for  many  years  unparal- 
leled not  alone  among  the  golfers  of 
America,  but  also  among  those  of  the 
effete  despotisms  of  the  outer  world. 

The  party  then  journeyed  through  the 
picturesque  scenery  of  mountain  and  desert 
to  the  city  of  Los  Angeles,  making  a  stop 
of  two  or  three  hours  at  Redlands.  At 
this  last  named  point  the  clubmen  were 
driven  about  the  town  and  over  the  famous 
park,  orchard,  and  garden  of  the  Smiley 
Brothers.  From  the  highest  point  of  this 
ground  was  spread  before  us  one  of  the 
most  delightful  and  picturesque  panoramas 
seen  anywhere  upon  the  journey.  We 
were  also  turned  loose  in  an  orange  orchard, 
with  unlimited  appetites  and  opportunities, 
after  which  the  journey  was  resumed,  the 
train  arriving  at  Los  Angeles  on  the  even- 
ing of  March  loth,  where  for  the  first 
time  the  party  left  its  comfortable  lodgings 
in  the  train  and  took  up  its  quarters  in  the 
Westminster  and  Van  Nuys  Hotels. 
When  the  train  stopped  at  Pasadena  for  a 
62 


VIEW   IN   SMILEY   BROTHERS'   PARK   AT 
REDLANDS 


tTNIVEKSITT 


few  moments  we  were  met  by  Messrs. 
Thomas  Murdock,  R.  T.  Crane,  O.  S.  A. 
Sprague  and  O.  W.  Potter,  members  of 
the  Club,  as  well  as  several  Chicago  people 
who  were  stopping  at  the  Green  Hotel. 
On  the  following  day  the  tourists  went  to 
Pasadena  and  made  various  excursions 
through  the  orange  groves  about  the  vil- 
lage, some  of  the  party  also  visiting  Mount 
Lowe  and  the  beautiful  home  of  Mr. 
Andrew  McNally,  after  which  an  elaborate 
lunch  was  given  by  Mr.  O.  S.  A.  Sprague 
at  the  Pintoresca  Hotel.  The  health  of 
our  host  was  proposed  in  a  most  felicitous 
speech  by  Mr.  Keith,  which  drew  from 
Mr.  Sprague  a  feeling  and  appropriate 
response.  A  reception  and  banquet  was 
given  by  the  Los  Angeles  Chamber  of 
Commerce  on  the  same  evening,  at  which 
addresses  of  welcome  were  given  and  a 
happy  response  made  by  Mr.  Eckels. 
Mr.  Eckels'  address  touched  strongly 
upon  the  importance  of  a  stable  currency, 
which  while  possibly  not  in  accord  with 
65 


the  views  of  some  of  his  audience,  yet  was 
received  with  gratifying  applause.  He 
illustrated  that  in  our  great  nation  there 
was  no  room  for  a  pessimist.  The  response 
to  the  first  toast,  "The  President"  was 
given  by  Judge  Enoch  Knight  and  was 
of  signal  ability.  Mr.  George  H.  Stewart, 
of  Los  Angeles,  responded  to  the  toast 
"  Our  Guests."  Judge  Eugene  Gary  and 
President  Fuller  also  made  brief  and  happy 
responses. 

From  Los  Angeles,  after  three  days 
spent  in  sundry  festivities  and  sight  seeing, 
all  proceeded  to  the  Coronado  Beach 
Hotel  at  San  Diego,  where  two  days  were 
spent  in  visiting  friends,  dancing  at  a  grand 
ball  at  the  Hotel,  sea  bathing,  sailing  about 
the  bay,  and  visiting  the  battle  ship,  Iowa. 
At  the  swimming  pool  Mr.  Butler  won  all 
the  honors  by  his  superb  barrel  riding,  and 
on  the  battle  ship  Mr.  Keyes  aimed  and 
sighted  the  big  gun  in  the  turret  in  a  man- 
ner which  the  captain  admitted  would  have 
ansured  the  destruction  of  any  ship  in  the 

66 


VIEW  OF  REDLANDS  FROM    SMILEY  BROTHERS'  PARK 


Spanish  navy.  A  few  made  a  trip  under 
the  chaperoning  of  Mr.  Burne  of  the  Santa 
Fe  road  to  the  headquarters  of  the  World's 
Theosophical  Society.  The  beautiful 
temple  of  the  association  is  located  upon 
Point  Loma,  the  lofty  peninsula  forming 
one  of  the  boundaries  of  the  harbor  of  San 
Diego,  where  a  magnificent  view  can  be  had 
on  the  one  side  of  the  Pacific  Ocean  and 
on  the  other  of  the  bay  and  village  of  San 
Diego  and  the  surrounding  country.  The 
institution  visited  is  in  charge  of  Madame 
Tingley,  the  successor  of  Madame  Blavat- 
sky  in  the  presidency  of  the  order.  Some 
of  the  tourists,  thoroughly  armed,  also 
sailed  a  short  distance  down  the  coast  and 
made  an  invasion  of  the  territory  of  the 
Mexican  republic,  but  saw  none  of  the 
inhabitants,  so  that  no  diplomatic  entangle- 
ments are  likely  to  arise  out  of  an  affair 
which  might  easily  have  been  magnified 
into  a  likeness  of  the  Russian  occupation 
of  Manchuria. 

On  the  way  from  Los  Angeles  we  were 
69 


accompanied  by  Mr.  Andrew  McNally, 
and  stopped  for  an  hour  or  two  at  his  great 
orchards  and  beautiful  house  at  El  Miranda. 
The  estate  consists  of  some  eight  hundred 
acres,  nearly  all  planted  with  orange, 
lemon,  grape  fruit,  and  olive  trees,  and  was 
the  most  extensive  orchard  visited  in  the 
state.  At  Mr.  McNally's  home  here  we 
were  served  with  a  drink  called  "Kitro," 
which  was  described  as  a  soft  drink  made 
from  the  juice  of  the  grape  fruit,  and  which 
was  therefore  partaken  of  freely  by  the 
teetotalers  of  the  party,  who  attributed  their 
hilarity  thereafter  to  the  exhilarating  effects 
of  the  California  air.  We  also  visited, 
near  Mr.  McNally's  place,  the  picturesque 
ruins  of  an  ancient  Jesuit  mission,  San 
Juan  Capistrano. 

At  the  Coronado  Beach  Hotel  the  party 
met  a  considerable  number  of  Chicago 
friends  and  acquaintances.  The  day  after 
our  arrival,  soon  after  the  incoming  of  the 
train,  a  small  newsboy  rushed  to  the  point 
where  several  of  the  Club  members  were 
70 


^jjm.m-- 


nA«y 


seated,  shouting:  "Hello,  millionaires! 
Want  the  San  Francisco  papers?*'  Thus 
early  in  the  trip  had  the  colossal  wealth 
of  each  member  of  the  party  become  a 
matter  of  common  note  among  the  people. 
The  theory  of  the  aggregate  wealth  grew 
out  of  a  simple  incident.  A  newspaper 
correspondent  at  Los  Angeles  was  asking 
the  names  of  the  various  tourists  at  the 
Westminster  Hotel,  and  pointing  to  Mr. 
Keyes,  said:  "Who  is  that  man?" 
"That  man,"  said  Mr.  Glessner,  "is  Mr. 
William  T.  Baker,  a  man  who  can  any  day 
draw  his  check  for  twenty  dollars."  The 
reporter,  with  the  usual  accuracy  of  his 
class,  reported  to  the  Los  Angeles  Herald, 
where  it  was  printed,  that  Mr.  Baker  was 
a  man  who  could  at  any  time  draw  his 
check  for  twenty  million  dollars  !  When 
this  report  was  discussed,  after  reading  the 
paper  the  next  morning,  some  one  re- 
marked that  every  one  of  the  tourists  who 
knew  how  to  write  could  draw  his  check 
for  twenty  million  dollars,  which  was  un- 
73 


doubtedly  true,  although  there  might  be  a 
possible  question  as  to  whether  such  check 
would  be  paid.  In  this  way  the  story  of 
the  vast  wealth  of  the  party  started. 
When  the  tourists  reached  the  Palace 
Hotel  in  San  Francisco,  Mr.  Baker  found 
himself  located  in  the  finest  suite  of  apart- 
ments in  the  great  hostelry  and  remarked 
to  the  proprietor:  "Good  Lord!  Do 
you  think  I  want  the  whole  hotel?" 
Replied  the  Boniface:  "I  could  not 
possibly  give  lesser  accommodations  than 
these  to  a  man  who  can  easily  draw  a 
check  for  twenty  million  dollars."  In 
the  morning  Mr.  Baker  found  several 
bell  boys  and  other  servants  standing  in 
line  to  wait  upon  him,  and  all  admitted 
upon  being  questioned  that  they  had  heard 
that  Mr.  Baker  never  gave  a  tip  of  less 
than  a  double  eagle. 

At  Phoenix  the  papers  announced  the 
aggregate  wealth  of  the  party  as  over  one 
hundred  millions ;  at  Los  Angeles  this 
valuation  was  increased  to  two   hundred 

74 


millions ;  the  San  Francisco  papers,  not 
to  be  outdone,  raised  the  amount  to  three 
hundred  millions ;  this  amount  was  in- 
creased to  four  hundred  millions  by  the 
Portland  journalists,  and  at  Seattle,  after 
the  visit  to  the  Snoqualmie  Power  Plant 
of  Mr.  Baker,  the  Seattle  journals  an- 
nounced the  aggregate  wealth  of  the 
travelers  at  seven  hundred  and  fifty- 
million  dollars.  At  Salt  Lake  City,  the 
enterprising  journalists  stated  that  at 
Tacoma  the  members  of  the  party  there 
present  were  worth  seven  hundred  and 
fifty  millions,  and  that  this  was  after  Mr. 
Marshall  Field  and  Mr.  James  H.  Eckels 
had  returned  to  California,  and  that,  had 
these  gentlemen  continued  with  the  party, 
it  would  have  represented  at  least  one 
thousand  million  dollars.  On  reaching 
Denver  the  Salt  Lake  estimate  was  care- 
fully gone  over  by  the  Denver  journalists, 
who,  after  consulting  various  of  the 
tourists,  and  also  interviewing  Mr.  David 
H.  Moifat,  Mr.  Thomas  S.  Hayden,  and 
77 


Ex- Governors  Grant  and  Adams,  reported 
that  an  accurate  inventory  of  the  combined 
property  of  the  tourist  party  represented 
unquestionably  at  least  twelve  hundred 
million  dollars.  As  no  stops  were  made 
after  leaving  Denver,  no  further  increase 
in  the  accumulations  of  the  clubmen 
was  made,  but  the  increase  in  wealth  from 
one  hundred  to  twelve  hundred  million 
dollars  in  the  space  of  sixteen  days  is  a 
startling  illustration  of  the  commercial 
possibilities  within  reach  of  the  citizens  of 
the  United  States,  and  readily  accounts 
for  the  prompt  absorption  of  the  stock  of 
Mr.  Morgan's  twelve  hundred  million 
dollar  steel  corporation,  which  was  evi- 
dently principally  subscribed  by  the  mem- 
bers of  the  Commercial  Club  from  their 
available  surplus  at  the  end  of  their 
journey. 

At    all    the    principal     towns    passed 

through   upon  the   trip,  alleged  portraits 

of  various  members  of  the  party  appeared 

in  the  newspapers,  and  in  nearly  all  cases 

78 


'^^f^Y 


tr*» 


CALlfS 


BRSi-rr 


where  the  portrait  of  Mr.  Baker  was 
attempted  he  was  portrayed  with  a  check 
for  twenty  million  dollars  protruding  from 
his  pocket, "  and  the  number  of  oppor- 
tunities offered  him  to  invest  this  amount 
in  mines,  in  timber  lands,  in  salmon 
fisheries,  in  corner  lots,  in  steamboat  com- 
panies, in  saw  mills,  and  in  various 
varieties  of  gold  brick  from  the  Klondike 
and  Nome  regions,  was  limited  only  by 
the  time  he  was  able  to  give  to  the  army 
of  promoters  who  were  anxious  to  make 
him  rich. 

After  a  pleasant  stay  of  two  days  at 
Coronado,  we  left  San  Diego  on  the 
evening  of  March  14th,  reaching  San 
Francisco  twenty-four  hours  later  and 
proceeded  at  once  to  the  Palace  Hotel, 
where  rooms  had  been  previously  re- 
served. The  following  day  being  Sunday, 
the  greater  part  of  the  tourists  took  a 
special  train  to  Monterey,  where  the  after- 
noon was  spent  at  the  Hotel  Del  Monte, 
and  in  the  beautiful  and  picturesque  drives 
81 


along  the  ocean  beach,  San  Francisco 
being  again  reached  the  same  evening. 
On  the  coaching  trip  one  of  the  drivers 
was  rather  communicative.  He  said  of  a 
small  village,  noted  in  passing:  "A  great 
place  for  women  here  in  the  summer,  and 
all  the  year  round,  too.  Last  year,  more 
than  forty  head  of  widows  wintered 
here !  " 

The  following  day,  Monday,  was  spent 
in  riding  upon  the  bay  and  to  the  Golden 
Gate,  the  Cliff  House,  the  parks,  and 
other  points  of  interest  in  the  city,  and  in 
the  evening  a  most  beautiful  and  elaborate 
banquet  was  tendered  the  travelers  by  the 
various  commercial  bodies  and  clubs  of 
San  Francisco.  The  banquet  was  served 
in  the  large  hall  of  the  Art  Institute,  the 
toastmaster  being  Mr.  Irving  M.  Scott, 
the  famous  builder  of  the  battle  ships 
Oregon  and  Iowa.  The  mayor  of  the  city 
extended  a  cordial  welcome  to  the  tourists, 
and  speeches  were  also  made  by  President 
Benjamin  Ide  Wheeler  and  W.  H.  L. 
82 


a 


MR.   ECKELS,  WHEN    BEGUILED    BY   "  THE   LIGHT 
THAT  LIES   IN   WOMAN'S    EYES" 


tlNlVERsiTT 


Barnes  of  California,  and  responded  to  on 
the  part  of  the  Commercial  Club  by  Mr. 
Eckels,  Mr.  Keith,  Mr.  A.  C.  Bartlett, 
President  Ripley,  of  the  Santa  Fe  Rail- 
way, and  President  Hays,  of  the  Southern 
Pacific.  Mr.  Eckels  gave  a  glowing 
picture  of  the  future  of  California,  with 
its  loyalty  to  a  stable  currency,  and  with 
the  vast  Oriental  trade  which  would,  with 
proper  foresight,  be  brought  to  its  doors, 
and  which  had  made  wealthy  every  nation 
that  had  possessed  it,  emphasizing,  also, 
the  point  that  a  trade  between  nations,  to 
be  permanent,  must  have  in  it  the  element 
of  reciprocity. 

Mr.  Keith  paid  an  eloquent  tribute  to 
the  pioneers  of  California — the  bold  and 
hardy  Argonauts  who,  against  great  disad- 
vantages of  transportation  and  intercourse, 
had  laid  wisely  and  well  the  foundations 
of  a  mighty  state.  Mr.  Bartlett,  referring 
to  the  roseate  pictures  of  the  future  drawn 
by  the  various  speakers,  deprecated  the 
possible  natural  tendency  to  exaggeration 
8s 


growing  out  of  the  enthusiasm  and  good 
cheer  which  made  the  occasion  a  notable 
one,  and  related  an  incident  illustrating 
this  tendency  from  his  own  experience. 
He  stated  that  he,  with  a  party  of  half  a 
dozen  friends,  had  been  in  the  habit,  for 
many  years,  of  spending  each  year  one  or 
two  weeks  in  the  Adirondacks,  where  they 
camped  out  and  spent  their  time  in  trout 
fishing.  On  their  first  trip,  they  had  a 
guide  to  show  them  the  best  trout  streams, 
and  he  had  guided  them  so  successfully 
in  this  respect  that  they  had  secured  his 
services  from  year  to  year  on  their  later 
excursions.  When  a  fish  of  more  than 
ordinary  size  was  caught,  the  guide,  from 
his  long  experience,  was  called  upon  to 
guess  its  weight,  and  his  guesses,  while 
made  with  great  care,  were  sufiiciently 
liberal,  so  that  the  fishermen  were  always 
provided  on  their  return  home  with  good 
stories  of  the  large  and  gamey  fish  they 
had  caught.  After  six  or  seven  years  of 
this  experience,  a  revival  of  religion  took 

86 


AT  THE  HOTEL  AT  THE  RIM  OF  THE  CANON 


or  rum     '^       , 


place  in  the  village  where  the  guide  lived, 
resulting  in  his  conversion  and  his  mem- 
bership in  the  local  church.  The  guide 
pondered  long  and  deeply  after  this  change 
of  heart  upon  the  many  guesses  he  had 
made  as  to  the  weight  of  the  fish  caught 
by  his  Chicago  customers.  He  finally 
decided  to  do  no  more  guessing  but  to 
weigh  the  fish  caught,  and  so  provided 
himself  with  spring  scales,  which  he  ad- 
justed with  great  care,  and  took  with  him 
when  the  party  accompanied  him  on  their 
excursion  of  the  following  year.  When- 
ever a  fish  of  unusual  size  was  caught,  it 
was  carefully  weighed  upon  the  scales 
with  the  most  satisfactory  results,  the  fish 
being  even  heavier  than  when  their  weight 
had  been  guessed  at,  so  that  the  fishermen 
returned  to  Chicago  with  stories  of  catch- 
ing larger  fish  than  ever  before.  At  the 
close  of  the  season  the  popular  guide 
returned  to  his  home,  and  shortly  after  his 
arrival  his  wife  presented  him  with  a  fine, 
healthy  boy.  Of  course,  one  of  his  first 
89 


duties  was  to  weigh  the  baby  and  no 
scales  could  be  found  about  the  place  ex- 
cept the  ones  which  had  been  used  during 
the  summer  in  weighing  the  fish,  so  the 
baby  was  placed  upon  these  scales,  by 
which  his  weight  was  found  to  be  forty-five 
pounds. 

President  Ripley  made  a  brief  but  very 
felicitous  speech,  rejoicing  that  after  long 
delay  the  railway,  of  which  he  was  the  ex- 
ecutive officer,  had  reached  the  metropolis 
of  the  Pacific  coast,  and  expressed  the 
hope  that  the  completed  line  would  be  a 
benefit  both  to  the  railway  company  and 
the  people  of  California. 

President  Hays,  of  the  Southern  Pacific, 
made  a  brief  and  hearty  speech  of  welcome 
to  the  guests  who  were  to  leave  the  city  by 
his  railway,  and  spoke  most  kindly  of  his 
competitor.  President  Ripley.  The  Cali- 
fornians  waited  in  vain  for  any  suggestion 
from  either  railroad  president  as  to 
probable  reductions  of  freight  rates  by 
reason  of  competition  between  the  two 
90 


AT  THE  ANCIENT  JESUIT  MISSION, 
SAN  JUAN  CAPISTRANO 


^\B  «  A  ^  y 

09    TB.B 

UNIVERSITY 


i>/^ 


CAUfO^ 


roads,  and  if  either  corporation  proposed 
to  devour  the  other  by  means  of  destruc- 
tive rate  wars,  no  indication  was  given,  but 
rather  an  impression  of  an  equitable 
division  of  the  business  at  fair  rates. 

At  the  Palace  Hotel  Mr.  Field  handed 
his  hat  and  overcoat  to  the  boy  in 
charge  of  the  rack  at  the  entrance  to 
the  dining-room.  As  he  left  the  room  the 
boy  promptly  selected  and  handed  him  his 
belongings  from  among  hundreds  of  similar 
articles.  Mr.  Field,  quick  to  recognize 
ability  in  any  direction,  said:  "  How  did 
you  know  these  were  my  things  ? ''  "I 
did  not  know  they  were  yours,"  replied 
the  boy.  "  Then,  why  did  you  bring  them 
to  me  ?  "  said  Mr.  Field.  "  Because  you 
gave  them  to  me,"  replied  the  budding 
scholastic. 

Shortly  before  reaching  San  Francisco, 
the  following  telegram  was  received  by 
Mr.  Farwell : 

Jacob  V.  Farwell. — The  pawnbrokers  of 
San  Francisco  have  heard  with  pleasure  of  your 
93 


expected  arrival  in  the  city,  together  with  your 
associate,  Rollin  Levy  Keyes,  and  beg  to  tender 
you  a  banquet,  to  be  held  at  the  hall  of  Rabbi 
Hirsch  on  Sunday  evening,  March  17th,  at 
seven  o'clock. 

Yours  fraternally, 

Isaac  Kosminsky. 

Messrs.  Farwell  and  Keyes  were  greatly 
elated  at  being  thus  chosen  from  the  entire 
party  for  especial  honor,  but  upon  return- 
ing from  the  banquet  were  extremely 
reticent  regarding  it.  They  spoke  of  one 
course  at  the  dinner,  consisting  of  Jerusa- 
lem artichokes  as  especially  delicate,  and 
of  a  jeu  d*esprit  in  the  welcoming  speech 
of  Abraham  Lipman,  but  otherwise 
avoided  details  of  their  outing. 

The  third  day  in  San  Francisco  was 
spent  by  the  tourists  according  to  their 
several  individual  plans.  All  the  members 
of  the  Club  had  several  old-time  friends 
and  acquaintances  among  the  residents  of 
San  Francisco,  and  the  day  was  largely  spent 
in  calling  upon  such  friends.  Mr.  Keith 
94 


and  Mr.  Eckels  spent  their  time  in  hot 
pursuit  of  the  various  bank  presidents  and 
cashiers  of  the  city.  This  had  been  the 
case  also  in  Los  Angeles,  but  the  game 
there  was  comparatively  small,  and  while 
Mr.  Eckels  succeeded  in  bagging  two 
bank  accounts,  one  a  customer  of  Mr. 
Keith's  and  the  other  a  customer  of  Mr. 
John  Mitchell's,  and  Mr.  Keith  succeeded 
in  transferring  one  bank  account  from  the 
Commercial  National  and  one  from  the 
First  National  to  the  Metropolitan,  yet 
these  were  but  modest  accounts  and  not 
to  be  compared  with  the  possible  prizes  at 
the  commercial  capital  of  California.  A 
treaty  of  peace  was  here  arranged  between 
Mr.  Keith  and  Mr.  Eckels  as  to  not  try- 
ing to  gobble  each  other's  customers. 
Each  made  a  desperate  eifFort  upon  a  most 
valuable  customer  of  the  Northern  Trust 
Company,  but  the  man  was  as  adamant  in 
his  loyalty  to  Mr.  Byron  Smith.  Mr. 
Eckels  and  Mr.  Keith,  however,  suc- 
ceeded in  each  securing  two  large  and 
95 


valuable  California  accounts,  being  four  in 
all,  each  of  which  accounts  was  claimed  to 
be  of  sufficient  value  to  defray  the  expenses 
of  the  trip  of  the  whole  party,  but  up  to 
the  time  of  this  writing  no  dividend  had 
been  made  by  the  two  Chicago  banks 
profited  to  the  members  of  the  party  who 
made  the  excursion  and  its  valuable 
results  possible. 

One  of  the  San  Francisco  papers  pub- 
lished alleged  portraits  of  some  of  the  excur- 
sionists, one  of  which,  labeled  "James  H. 
Eckels,"  was  so  atrociously  bad  that  the 
publisher  was  asked  for  an  explanation. 
He  apologized  by  saying  that  he  wished 
to  have  a  picture  of  Mr.  Eckels,  but,  being 
unable  to  get  a  sketch,  had  used  a  portrait 
of  Pat  Crowe,  furnished  him  by  Mr. 
Cudahy,  thinking  that,  as  his  readers  had 
never  seen  either  of  the  persons,  the  error 
would  not  be  detected. 

Another  journal,  in  an  article  about  the 
Club  visitors,  gave  brief  sketches  of  some 
of  the  party.  Of  Mi*.  Keyes  the  article 
96 


PRESIDENT   RIPLEY,  AFTER  PARTING   WITH   THE 
TOURISTS  AT  SAN    FRANCISCO 


f  TT-Xr-r  J"'  '"**"  \ 

I  UKIVERsittI 


c^Ljf^onvilt 


stated  that  he  was  born  with  a  gold  spoon 
in  his  mouth,  and  was  the  baby  of  the 
Club.  The  statement  in  regard  to  the 
spoon  was  questioned,  but  to  silence  all 
dispute,  and  to  show  that  the  newspaper 
statement  was  correct,  Mr.  Chalmers  pur- 
chased a  gold  spoon,  had  it  marked  "  For 
the  Baby,"  and  presented  it  to  Mr.  Keyes. 
Whenever  any  doubts  were  expressed,  Mr. 
Keyes  promptly  produced  it  as  the 
identical  spoon  which  was  found  in  his 
mouth  at  the  date  of  his  birth. 

At  San  Francisco  President  Ripley, 
who  had  accompanied  the  party  thus  far, 
turned  the  travelers  over  to  the  tender 
mercies  of  the  Southern  Pacific,  returning 
himself  for  a  well-earned  rest  to  southern 
California,  as  did  also  Mr.  Field  and  Mr. 
Lincoln. 

On  the  evening  of  the  i8th,  the 
travelers  left  San  Francisco,  and  early  in 
the  following  forenoon  had  their  first  view 
of  Mt.  Shasta.  This  sublime  mountain 
was  in  view,  at  intervals,  for  several  hours, 

99 


and  the  scenery  for  the  whole  day,  includ- 
ing the  spring  and  waterfall  at  Shasta 
Springs,  and  the  later  views  of  Mt.  Hood 
and  Mt.  Renier,  was  the  most  picturesque 
we  had  yet  seen.  We  reached  Portland 
early  on  the  morning  of  the  20th,  and 
after  breakfast  took  passage  upon  a  train 
up  the  valley  of  the  Columbia  River  as 
far  as  the  cascades,  a  distance  of  over  fifty 
miles,  passing  on  the  way  the  wonderfully 
fine  Multonah  waterfall.  After  briefly 
inspecting  the  vast  locks  at  the  cascade, 
built  by  the  Government  under  the 
direction  of  Major  Willard  Young,  of  the 
West  Point  engineering  corps,  the  club- 
men returned  to  Portland  by  boat,  on  the 
Columbia  River,  the  trip  having  been  in 
every  way  a  most  enjoyable  one.  In  the 
afternoon,  after  a  drive  through  the  most 
interesting  parts  of  the  city,  a  reception 
was  tendered  us  by  the  Commercial 
organizations  of  Portland  at  the  principal 
hotel.  In  the  evening  a  banquet,  which 
was  one  of  the  most  elegant  of  the  whole 

ICX3 


MR.   BUTLER   AS  THE   COLOSSUS   OF   RHODES 
AT  SHASTA  SPRINGS 


trip,  was  served  at  the  same  hotel.  The 
tables  and  banquet  room  were  made 
beautiful  by  an  abundance  of  flowers  and 
electric  lights.  Ex-Senator  Williams  pre- 
sided at  the  banquet,  and  made  a  graceful 
address  of  welcome,  after  which  came  a 
few  bright  speeches  from  the  ranks  of  our 
entertainers,  including  Mayor  Rowe, 
Governor  Geer,  and  Thomas  H.  Tongue ; 
responses  by  President  Fuller,  Mr.  Chal- 
mers, Mr.  Keith,  and  Mr.  Eckels,  of  our 
party.  After  the  banquet  we  proceeded 
to  the  train,  and  found  ourselves  the  next 
morning  at  Seattle.  At  this  point,  Mr. 
William  T.  Baker  was  constituted  the 
chaperon  of  the  party  for  the  two  follow- 
ing days.  After  breakfast,  taking  a  special 
train,  we  visited  the  famous  Snoqualmie 
Power  plant,  built  and  equipped  by  Mr. 
Baker,  the  whole  construction  of  which 
had  been  in  charge  of  his  son,  Mr.  Charles 
H.  Baker.  This  plant  is,  undoubtedly, 
at  the  present  time  in  the  front  of  all 
similar  installations,  whereby  water  power 
103 


is  utilized  for  the  developing,  transforming, 
and  distributing  the  electrical  current  for 
light  and  power  purposes.  In  it  all  the 
latest  discoveries  and  inventions  in  the 
generation  of  the  electric  current  are 
utilized,  and  the  10,000  horse  power 
produced  is  sufficient  to  light  the  cities  of 
Seattle,  Tacoma,  and  Everett,  as  well  as 
to  furnish  the  power  with  which  to  operate 
the  street-car  lines  in  each  of  such  cities. 
Everything  connected  with  the  plant  is 
built  in  the  most  substantial  manner,  and 
this  magnificently  successful  engineering 
project  will  make  the  name  of  our  asso- 
ciate honored  far  and  wide  long  after  his 
fight  against  the  Chicago  elevator  people, 
the  only  people  who,  in  recent  years,  have 
brought  any  grain  to  the  Chicago  market, 
is  forgotten. 

The  party  registered  their  names  in  the 
visitors'  book  at  the  power  plant  with 
occasional  comments.  Dr.  Dudley  wrote 
after  his  name :  "  This  is  more  surprising 
than  the  work  of  God ;  we  knew  that  God 
104 


could  do  everything,  but  didn't  know  that 
Baker  could." 

The  excursion  from  Seattle  to  the  Sno- 
qualmie  Falls  and  return  occupied  the 
forenoon  of  21st  March;  in  the  afternoon 
the  travelers  were  taken  for  a  long  sail 
upon  the  bay  and  a  drive  through  the  in- 
teresting parts  of  the  city.  The  Seattle 
Commercial  clubs  had  proposed  to  give  us 
a  banquet  of  the  usual  type  in  the  evening, 
but  the  Executive  Committee  had  dissuaded 
them  from  this  plan,  whereupon  they  sub- 
stituted for  the  banquet  a  German  dinner 
at  a  park  pavilion  near  the  city,  and 
readily  reached  by  the  electric  cars.  For 
the  two  or  three  days  previous  the  weather 
had  been  warm  and  sunny,  but  the  evening 
of  our  visit  was  quite  chilly.  The  party 
proceeded  to  the  pavilion,  which  was  found 
to  be  a  new,  barn-like  structure,  in  one 
corner  of  which  was  a  small  coal  stove,  a  la 
Colonel  Mulberry  Sellers,  the  effect  of 
which  was  utterly  lost  in  the  vast  room  at 
a  distance  of  eighteen  inches  from  the 
105 


stove.  When  the  visitors  arrived  they 
placed  their  hats  and  overcoats  in  the  ante- 
room and  took  their  places  around  the 
small  tables  scattered  throughout  the 
room.  After  being  seated  at  the  tables  a 
few  moments,  one  after  another  of  the 
guests  proceeded  to  the  ante-room  and 
clothed  himself  in  his  hat  and  overcoat, 
until  the  whole  company  were  wrapped  in 
their  winter  clothing.  Various  cold  dishes 
were  placed  upon  the  tables  and  eaten  by 
the  shivering  party.  Four  negro  minstrels 
furnished  characteristic  music  while  the 
chattering  of  the  teeth  of  the  guests  made 
fitting  accompaniment  to  the  castanets. 
After  the  party  were  seated  at  table,  with 
overcoats  and  hats  on,  a  gentleman  from 
Seattle,  sitting  with  several  Chicagoans, 
was  using  his  best  endeavors  to  increase 
the  heat  by  enlarging  on  the  immense  ad- 
vantages possessed  by  Seattle,  and  upon 
the  great  possibilities  of  the  future,  seeming 
to  be  entirely  unconscious  of  the  chilliness 
of    the    surrounding    atmosphere.       He 

io6 


--1 


M 


AT    MR     McN ALLY'S   RANCH 


warmed  up  to  his  subject,  and  in  an  ex- 
haustive way  piled  superlative  upon  super- 
lative in  describing  the  advantages  which 
Seattle  possessed  as  a  place  of  business, 
and  in  impressing  upon  us  the  immense 
possibilities  of  the  future.  He  suddenly- 
seemed  to  feel  that  the  atmosphere  was  not 
as  warm  as  it  might  be  (especially  as  he 
wore  a  thin  spring  overcoat,  which  he 
quickly  buttoned),  and  pausing  for  a 
moment  and  turning  to  his  next  neighbor, 
who  was  a  member  of  the  Committee  on 
Entertainment,  he  said  in  a  low  voice : 
"Why  in  hell  did  you  bring  these  people 
to  this  ice-box? "  And  then  just  as  if  the 
air  was  as  balmy  as  summer,  turned  and 
resumed  his  praises  of  his  adopted  city. 

As  the  party  left  the  pavilion,  Mr. 
Morton  suggested  that  while  the  weather 
was  a  bit  cool  we  must  console  ourselves 
with  the  remark  of  the  Scripture  King 
that  while  many  were  cold,  few  were  frozen. 

Notwithstanding  the  discomfort,  every 
one  recognized  that  our  entertainers  had 
109 


prepared  for  us  what  would  have  been  a 
delightful  dinner,  except  for  the  sudden 
and  unexpected  change  in  the  weather,  for 
nothing  could  be  more  hospitable  than  the 
course  toward  us  of  all  the  Seattle  people 
whom  we  met.  Mr.  Eckels,  whose  con- 
sideration for  the  feelings  of  others,  coupled 
with  the  fact  that  he  had  more  hair  on  his 
head  than  most  of  the  Club  members,  ven- 
tured to  go  without  his  hat  while  seated  at 
the  table,  although  his  heavy  coat  collar 
was  at  the  same  time  turned  up  above  his 
ears,  while  Mr.  George  Walker,  walking 
along  with  an  indifferent  air,  but  for  the 
real  purpose  of  interviewing  the  stove, 
drew  the  attention  of  the  party  by  upset- 
ting the  coal  hod  and  all  the  fire  irons. 
Mr.  Keith  and  Mr.  Eckels  each  reported 
the  securing  of  a  valuable  bank  account  at 
Seattle,  but  upon  comparing  notes  it  was 
found  that  each  had  the  promise  of  the 
business  of  the  same  bank,  the  president 
of  which  was  evidently  of  a  genial  and 
accommodating  disposition,  whose  sole 
no 


desire  was  to  please.  Inquiry  since  reach- 
ing home  has  also  developed  the  farther 
fact  that  this  account  has  thus  far  shown 
no  sign  of  leaving  its  present  place  at  the 
First  National. 

The  excursionists  next  journeyed  to 
Tacoma,  where  it  was  proposed  to  spend 
the  day.  Immediately  after  breakfast  the 
party  were  taken  upon  flat  cars  some  ten 
miles  into  the  heart  of  one  of  the  great 
forests,  which  are  one  of  the  special  features 
and  sources  of  wealth  of  the  country 
tributary  to  Tacoma.  All  the  operations 
of  cutting  and  hauling  the  logs  to  the 
roads  by  machinery  and  trailing  them 
down  to  where  such  logs  were  loaded  upon 
the  cars  were  witnessed  by  the  travelers. 
One  tree  seven  feet  in  diameter  at  the  butt 
was  measured  by  one  of  the  party,  and 
showed  that  it  was  205  feet  to  the  tip 
where  the  last  log  was  taken  off,  and  where 
the  small  end  of  that  log  was  forty-four 
inches  in  diameter.  The  ride  back  to 
Tacoma  was  enlivened  by  a  brisk  shower. 


the  only  one  encountered  during  the  entire 
trip.  Before  leaving  the  lumber  camp,  a 
bountiful  and  substantial  dinner  was  served 
in  the  camp  boarding  house,  and  upon  our 
return  to  the  city  we  visited  one  of  the 
mammoth  saw  mills,  where  logs  seven  or 
eight  feet  in  diameter  were  cut  into  lumber, 
after  which  a  drive  was  taken  through  the 
interesting  parts  of  the  city,  and  a  pleasant 
reception  was  given  us  by  the  Committee 
at  the  principal  hotel.  At  six  o'clock  we 
boarded  the  train  for  Salt  Lake  City,  which 
we  reached  at  nine  o'clock  in  the  morning 
of  March  24th.  On  the  way  a  brief  side 
excursion  was  made  to  Boise,  the  capital 
of  Idaho,  where  we  witnessed  the  heating 
of  the  public  buildings  and  residences  by 
hot  water  drawn  from  a  hot  spring  some 
miles  distant  and  sufficiently  above  the 
town  to  take  the  water  to  the  upper  stories 
of  the  buildings.  The  fine  bathing  house 
and  swimming  pool  were  visited,  and  on 
the  way,  at  a  lawyer's  office,  was  noted  a 
sign  "X-Ray  Collection  Office." 
112 


The  Commercial  Travelers*  Club  of  Salt 
Lake  City,  had  prepared  a  most  interest- 
ing programme  occupying  the  whole  day. 
First,  a  drive  through  the  most  interesting 
business  and  residence  streets  of  the  city, 
including  a  visit  to  the  military  post  at 
Camp  Douglass  and  the  new  city  and 
county  building,  then  a  call  upon  President 
Snow,  a  visit  to  two  or  three  of  the  princi- 
pal stores,  an  elegant  dinner  at  the  Alta 
Club,  a  concert  in  the  grand  music  hall, 
a  visit  to  Saltaire  with  its  superb  bath 
house  at  the  Salt  Lake,  and  a  reception  at 
the  Knudsford  Hotel.  As  a  rule  through- 
out the  entire  trip,  each  individual  seemed 
willing  and  anxious  to  efface  himself  utterly, 
if  by  so  doing  the  pleasure  of  his  associates 
could  be  promoted.  Two  exceptions  to 
this  rule,  which  occurred  at  the  visit  to 
Saltaire,  deserve  to  be  mentioned.  Our 
genial  friend  Dr.  Dudley  met  at  this  point 
two  charming  young  Mormon  ladies,  the 
daughters  of  a  patient  whom  he  had  treated 
in  the  city.  Mr.  Baker  at  the  same  time 
"3 


renewed  his  acquaintance  with  a  fascinating 
Mormon  widow.  During  our  stay  at  this 
point  nearly  every  member  of  the  party 
wandered  around  beside  the  Doctor  or  the 
writer  of  the  1 20,000,000  check,  with  some 
original  remark,  relative  to  the  weather 
or  some  equally  novel  topic,  hoping  to 
secure  thereby  an  introduction,  but  in 
every  case  a  stolid  and  stony  glare  drove 
away  the  intruder  with  his  longings  un- 
satisfied. 

The  visit  to  Salt  Lake  City  recalled 
various  incidents  connected  with  its  history 
in  the  earlier  days.  One  winter  in  Wash- 
ington a  bill  had  been  introduced  in  Con- 
gress and  was  being  vigorously  pushed  for 
the  purpose  of  punishing  the  members  of 
the  Mormon  Church  who  were  polygamists. 
One  evening  at  a  reception  at  the  house 
of  Mr.  Blaine,  an  elderly  member  of  Con- 
gress, who  was  then  living  with  his  fourth 
wife,  the  other  three  having  died  and  their 
places  having  been  promptly  filled,  was 
talking  with  Miss  Dodge,  better  known  as 
114 


ON  THE  COLUMBIA   RIVER 


**Gail  Hamilton,"  in  reference  to  the  pend- 
ing bill.  He  explained  that  he  felt  a  deep 
interest  in  its  passage,  feeling  as  he  did  that 
plural  marriage  as  practiced  by  the  Mor- 
mons was  one  of  the  crying  evils  of  the 
age,  and  should  be  put  down  with  a  strong 
hand.  After  expressing  himself  vehe- 
mently in  this  line  he  inquired  of  Gail 
Hamilton  if  she  did  not  see  the  matter  in 
the  same  light  as  himself  She  replied 
that  she  did  not  certainly  under  any  cir- 
cumstances approve  of  polygamy,  yet  that 
in  case  a  man  was  to  have  four  wives,  the 
difference  did  not  seem  to  her  vital  whether 
he  drove  them  four  abreast  or  drove  them 
tandem. 

Another  incident  was  also  mentioned  as 
illustrating  the  sagacity  of  Brigham  Young. 
The  person  telling  the  story  said  that  he 
had  noticed  in  Salt  Lake  City  what  seemed 
an  abnormal  number  of  deformed  and 
crippled  people.  He  finally  made  inquiry 
regarding  this  and  was  informed  that 
many  of  these  people  had  joined  the 
117 


Mormon  Church  and  traveled  to  Salt  Lake 
expecting  to  be  cured  of  their  infirmities 
by  the  laying  on  of  hands  and  the  prayers 
of  the  Mormon  priesthood.  Among  the 
Mormons  can  be  found  numerous  stories 
of  wonderful  cures  accomplished  by  this 
method.  One  day  an  English  convert 
arrived  in  the  city,  one  of  whose  legs  had 
been  amputated  as  the  result  of  some 
accident  in  England.  He  presently  called 
upon  Brigham  Young  and  petitioned  that 
the  prayers  of  the  church  be  offered  for  the 
restoration  of  the  missing  leg.  President 
Young  saw  that  the  man  was  perfectly 
sincere  in  his  belief  that  the  sought-for 
relief  could  be  obtained  through  the  prayers 
of  the  church,  and  not  wishing  to  disturb 
a  faith  so  unquestioning,  replied  to  him: 
"Brother  Jones,  equally  remarkable  and 
wonderful  cures  have  been  wrought  by 
the  laying  on  of  hands  and  the  prayers  of 
the  priesthood,  but  you  should  consider 
this  point.  One  of  the  cardinal  articles 
of  our  faith  is  the  literal  resurrection  of  the 

ii8 


body  on  the  judgment  day.  Your  leg 
which  you  have  left  in  England  will  be 
brought  to  where  your  body  lies,  and  you 
will  appear  on  that  day  in  your  original 
manly  symmetry.  Would  it  not  be  better 
for  you  to  go  through  the  few  remaining 
years  of  your  life  here  with  one  wooden 
leg,  rather  than  to  go  through  the  endless 
ages  of  eternity  in  Heaven,  a  three-legged 
man?"  Fortunately  the  man  decided  in 
favor  of  the  brief  inconvenience. 

The  concert  given  us  at  the  Salt  Lake 
Music  Hall  was  delightful,  and  the  two 
virtuosos  of  the  Club  in  music,  Messrs. 
Glessner  and  Sprague,  admitted  that  they 
had  never  heard  the  Soldiers'  Chorus  in 
Faust  better  rendered  by  any  Grand  Opera 
Company  than  by  this  chorus  of  four 
hundred  splendidly  trained  voices.  At 
the  close  of  the  concert  the  choir-master 
asked  Mr.  Carpenter,  our  Boston  guest, 
to  introduce  him  to  Mr.  Kimball.  When 
this  was  done,  after  a  brief  chat  the  choir- 
master stated  that  he  had  asked  for  the  in- 


121 


troduction  that  he  might  say  to  Mr.  Kim- 
ball that  scarcely  one  of  the  churches  in 
Utah  but  was  provided  with  a  Kimball 
organ ;  that  this  organ  played  an  important 
part  in  their  Sunday  worship,  and  that  he 
was  pleased  beyond  measure  to  grasp  the 
hand  and  listen  to  the  voice  of  the  man 
who,  by  the  manufacture  of  these  exquisite 
instruments  was  elevating  the  musical  taste 
and  thereby  the  moral  standards  of  the 
entire  human  race.  Mr.  Kimball  blushed 
at  this  unstinted  praise,  but  presently 
recovered  himself  and  assured  the  musician 
that  his  words  would  encourage  him  to  aim 
at  even  loftier  ideals,  and  that  he  hoped 
the  Kimball  organs  would  ultimately  min- 
ister to  the  wants  of  an  audience  as  world- 
wide as  was  reached  by  the  Psalms  of 
David. 

Our  day  at  Salt  Lake  was  on  a  Sunday, 
which  prevented  our  banker  drummers 
from  visiting  the  local  bankers  at  their 
offices,  but  unsolicited  good  fortune  came 
to  Mr.  Byron  Smith.     Mr.  Young,  a  son 

123 


'^~^'    '^'^  -^    •1*'  ■  •'•'■/ 


y-oi 


-  <v^   ;::*^    '  rz 


^\  £ 


FELLING   A   TREE   IN   THE  LOGGING  CAMP 
NEAR  TACOMA 


^HIVEHSITY 


of  Brigham  Young,  and  the  cashier  of  the 
Deseret  National,  the  leading  Utah  Bank, 
came  to  the  reception  at  the  Knudsford 
Hotel,  and  was  introduced  to  Mr.  Smith 
as  the  President  of  the  Northern  Trust 
Company.  After  a  brief  but  pleasant 
chat,  in  which  Mr.  Smith  made  no  allusion 
to  business,  Mr.  Young  stated  that  he 
should  be  glad  to  transfer  his  Chicago 
account  to  the  Northern  Trust  Co.  As 
his  reason,  he  stated  that  the  name  Smith 
was  the  name  borne  by  Joseph  the  Prophet, 
Seer,  Revelator,  and  Founder  of  the 
Mormon  Church  of  Latter  Day  Saints ; 
that  the  name  of  Joseph  Smith  was  held 
in  reverence  by  all  the  members  of  the 
church  he  had  organized,  and  as  the  name 
Smith  was  an  unusual  one,  he  had  no 
doubt  that  Byron  Smyth  was  a  cousin  or 
other  kin  to  Joseph  Smith,  and  was,  there- 
fore, entitled  to  the  kindly  offices  of  all  the 
brethren. 

At  Salt   Lake  City,  Dr.   Dudley  met 
several  of  his  professional  brethren  and, 
125 


among  other  questions,  asked  one  of  them 
as  to  fees  received  by  physicians.  "  I  will 
give  you  an  illustration,"  said  the  frontier 
doctor.  "Last  year,  an  honest  farmer 
living  a  few  miles  from  town  had  been 
quite  sick  with  typhoid  fever,  and  I  had 
attended  him  for  several  weeks  and.  until 
his  recovery.  I  then  sent  him  my  bill : 
"  Medicine,  I2.90 ;  Visits,  $20.00."  The 
good  old  man  immediately  wrote  me  a 
letter,  in  substance  this :  "  As  soon  as  I 
sell  my  watermelons  I  will  send  you  the 
1 2. 90,  and  I  will  return  your  visits  next 
winter  when  work  on  the  farm  is  dull." 

The  proprietor  of  the  Knudsford  Hotel 
reported  that  business  was  very  good,  his 
rooms  being  full  constantly  and  cots  being 
often  needed  in  the  parlors.  Mr.  Butler 
explained  that  this  was  nothing  to  the 
crowds  at  the  Ponciana,  in  Florida,  which 
he  had  recently  visited.  There,  after  all 
possible  space  in  the  hotel  had  been 
utilized,  some  sixty  guests  were  obliged  to 
sleep  in  a  church,  the  pews  of  which  being 
126 


LOADING   LOGS  ON   A  CAR  NEAR  TACOMA 


cushioned  made  endurable  beds.  Mr. 
Butler,  himself,  whose  habit  of  sleeping  in 
church  at  home  had  familiarized  him  with 
such  lodgings,  found  himself  quite  com- 
fortable in  the  church  quarters.  When 
he  treated  his  friends  to  lemonade  or  other 
soft  drinks  suitable  to  be  served  by  the 
President  of  the  South  Side  Temperance 
Union,  he  always  directed  the  clerk  of  the 
hotel  buffet  to  charge  it  to  Pew  43. 

From  Salt  Lake  City  the  party  proceeded 
through  the  wonderfully  picturesque  route 
of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande,  to  the  city 
of  Denver.  In  order  to  pass  through  the 
Grand  Canon  of  the  Arkansas  River  by 
daylight  a  stop  of  three  hours  was  made 
at  Glenwood  Springs,  and  of  two  hours,  at 
night,  at  Leadville  and  Salida.  Mr. 
Goshorn  of  Cincinnati,  while  taking  a  walk 
about  Glenwood  Springs,  met  a  man  very 
thinly  dressed  and  remarked,  in  his  cheerful 
manner,  "You  look  cold."  The  man  re- 
plied with  a  heavy  accent  on  the  first  two 
words,  "By  God,  I  am,"  thus  illustrating 
129 


the  earnest  and  strong  convictions  of  the 
hardy  Colorado  pioneer. 

At  Leadville  some  of  the  people  came 
down  to  look  at  the  train,  and  Mr.  H.  N. 
Davis  inquired  of  them  how  high  we  were 
at  this  point.  The  reply  was:  "Ten 
thousand  feet,  and  this  is  nearer  Heaven 
than  any  of  you  Chicago  people  will  ever 
get  again!"  Reaching  Denver  at  about 
noon  of  March  25th,  after  a  drive  of  an 
hour  or  two  about  the  city,  we  met  at  the 
Denver  Club,  where  an  elaborate  luncheon 
was  served  by  the  Club,  at  which  Mr. 
Morey,  a  former  Chicagoan,  presided. 
After  an  hour  or  two  of  visiting  with  the 
many  friends  of  the  Club  resident  in  Den- 
ver, we  started  for  home.  After  leaving 
Denver  a  dispute  arose  between  Messrs. 
Keyes  and  Kimball,  the  two  special  gour- 
mands of  the  party,  as  to  what  was  served 
as  the  second  course  at  the  luncheon  at 
the  Denver  Club.  A  large  bet  was  made 
between  them  and  the  money  placed  in  the 
hands  of  Mr.  McFarland,  the  Club  treas- 
130 


urer.  Mr.  Keyes  volunteered  to  wire 
Mr.  Morey  for  a  decision  and  sent  the 
following  telegram :  "  To  decide  a  bet  of 
considerable  magnitude  will  you  please 
wire  W.  A.  Fuller,  President  of  Chicago 
Commercial  Club,  at  Boone,  Iowa,  whether 
the  game  course  at  the  luncheon  yesterday 
was  prairie  chicken  or  duck.  Strictly  con- 
fidential, duck  preferred.  R.  A.  Keyes." 
When  this  telegram  was  exhibited  later  it 
was  felt  by  Mr.  Kimball  that  the  telegram 
was  unfair  as  Mr.  Keyes  and  Mr.  Morey 
were  friends  and  were  both  wholesale 
grocers  and  Mr.  Keyes  had  intimated  his 
wish  as  to  what  the  answer  would  be,  but 
if  this  was  the  case,  Mr.  Morey  rose  to 
the  occasion,  scorned  the  bribe  and 
answered  "Prairie  chicken."  The  money 
was  thereupon  paid  to  Mr.  Kimball,  and 
the  cashier  and  bookkeeper  of  Murry 
Nelson's  Poker  Club  stated  that  by  this 
transaction  the  whole  of  Mr.  Keyes  hard 
earnings  at  poker  for  the  entire  journey 
were  transferred  to  Mr.  Kimball. 
131 


As  the  result  of  an  accident  to  a  freight 
train  on  the  Union  Pacific,  the  train  was 
four  hours  late  at  Omaha,  but  this  was  all 
made  up  between  Omaha  and  Chicago. 
The  almost  perfect  roadbed  of  the  Chi- 
cago and  Northwestern  enabled  the  train 
to  make  an  average  run  of  fifty-five  miles 
an  hour  for  the  whole  distance,  so  that  we 
reached  the  Chicago  station  almost  to  a 
minute  at  the  time  arranged  a  month 
before.  During  the  last  few  hours  of  their 
journey  together,  the  clubmen  spent  much 
time  in  reminiscences  of  the  trip.  Col. 
John  M.  Clark  told  of  overhearing  a  dis- 
cussion among  the  colored  servants  when 
they  were  together  in  the  dining-car  as  to 
who  was  the  handsomest  man  in  the  party. 
After  Colonel  Clark  had  overcome  his 
chagrin  at  finding  that  his  name  was  not 
mentioned  in  the  list,  he  found  that  of  the 
three  prominent  candidates  but  one — Mr. 
Marshall  Field — was  a  member  of  the 
Club.  The  other  two  were  Gen.  Wesley 
Merritt  and  Mr.  Arthur  Caton.  The  argu- 
132 


FROM    PREVIOUS   CONDITION   OF   SERVITUDE 


1^4-^^^' 


OF  Qf^V^ 


tJT^ 


ments  pro  and  con  were  very  amusing, 
and  were  stated  with  considerable  vehe- 
mence, but  notwithstanding  the  strong 
pleas  made  for  other  parties,  Mr.  Arthur 
Caton  finally  triumphed,  he  proving  to 
have  more  admirers  than  the  others,  and 
he  was  pronounced  to  be  the  most  strik- 
ingly handsome  man  in  the  entire  party. 
This  discussion  was  reported  by  Colonel 
Clark  to  the  members  of  the  party,  and 
Mr.  Caton  was  duly  congratulated.  He 
bore  his  new  honors  with  his  usual  and 
becoming  modesty. 

Mr.  Hotz  said  that  the  trip  had  im- 
pressed him  especially  with  the  great  future 
of  the  agricultural  and  horticultural  wealth 
of  the  Pacific  Slope.  The  people  at  Pasa- 
dena admitted  that  southern  California 
produced  finer  semi-tropical  fruits  of  every 
variety  than  any  other  country  in  the 
world.  The  finest  peaches  in  the  world 
were  grown  at  Los  Angeles,  also  at  Oak- 
land, Portland,  Salt  Lake,  Boise,  Denver, 
and  Omaha.  The  finest  melons  and  apples 
135 


in  the  world  were  grown  about  Sacramento, 
also  near  Portland,  Everett,  Tacoma,  Salt 
Lake,  and  Greeley,  Colo.  Mr.  Hotz 
stated  that  these  facts  were  not  merely  his 
own  impressions,  but  had  been  admitted 
to  him  by  residents  of  all  the  places 
named. 

Mr.  Morton  told  of  having  asked  the 
porter  of  Car  No.  2  how  the  boys  had 
enjoyed  the  tip  given  them.  The  porter 
replied  that  it  was  more  than  satisfactory 
— that  they  had  hoped  the  party  would 
be  liberal,  but  that  they  had  no  idea  of 
being  reprimanded  so  generously. 

As  we  approached  home  it  was  sug- 
gested that  an  attempt  be  made  to  deter- 
mine the  amount  of  money  made  and  lost 
at  the  poker  table  presided  over  by  Mr. 
Murry  Nelson.  Mr.  Nelson,  from  his 
delicate  health,  had  been  assigned  a  state- 
room in  a  Pullman  car,  and  had  invited 
the  poker  devotees  to  make  themselves  at 
home  in  his  room.  He  explained  that 
poker  was  a  game  he  did  not  understand, 
136 


THE   HISTORIAN,  THE   SECRETARY,  AND   THE 
PHOTOGRAPHER 


^\  B  K  A  ^y" 

or    THK 

■UNIVERSITT 


but  he  was  willing  to  take  a  hand  to  fill 
out  the  table.  It  soon  became  noticeable 
that  jackpots  of  any  magnitude  seemed  to 
be  usually  appropriated  by  Mr.  Nelson. 
This  was  so  regularly  the  case  that  no  one 
was  surprised  when  he,  at  each  hotel 
visited  by  the  party,  was  the  only  person 
who  found  it  wise  to  comply  with  the 
hotel  suggestion  that  valuables  be  de- 
posited in  the  hotel  safe  to  guard  against 
robbers  in  the  sleeping  rooms.  His 
pocket-book  was  regularly  so  deposited, 
but  no  other  player  found  it  necessary  to 
safeguard  his  purse.  Mr.  Nelson  declined 
to  give  figures  as  to  his  gains,  and  the  only 
clew  the  clubmen  could  get  as  to  their 
volume  was  from  his  inquiry  of  Mr. 
Burnett  as  to  the  wisdom  of  buying  two 
hundred  shares  of  Bell  Telephone  Co. 
stock  as  a  safe  investment.':'^-,  ^v.  c-  r  5V^f^?f^ 

No  other  subject  was,  however,  so  much 

discussed,  both  at  the  closing  hours  of  the 

trip  and  at  all  its  intermediate  stages,  as  the 

admirable  manner  in  which  the  officials  of 

139 


the  various  railways  traversed,  cared  for 
the  comfort  of  their  guests.  It  seemed 
impossible  to  suggest  anything  which  could 
have  been  done  by  the  railway  officials 
which  would  have  added  to  the  enjoyment 
of  the  journey.  The  pleasure  given  the 
members  by  the  opportunity  of  making 
intimate  acquaintance  with  their  guests,  the 
representatives  of  the  St.  Louis,  Cincinnati, 
and  Boston  Commercial  Clubs,  was  also 
highly  appreciated.  The  wide-awake 
energy  and  tireless  push  of  the  Chicago 
party  were  modified  by  the  asceticism  and 
Browningesque  repose  of  the  Bostonians, 
by  the  scholarly  and  artistic  graces  of  the 
Cincinnati  guests,  and  by  the  hilarious  and 
breezy  spirit  of  the  St.  Louis  representa- 
tives. The  mingling  of  the  different 
elements  will  doubtless  result  in  the  benefit 
of  all. 

The  trip  extended    over   ten  different 

railroads  and  in  each  instance  the  president 

or  some   prominent  official   of  the  road 

traversed,  joined    the   party    and  accom- 

140 


panied  it  while  passing  over  his  road,  so 
that  everything  was  seen  to  the  greatest 
possible  advantage.  Never  while  life  shall 
last  will  any  member  of  the  party  cease  to 
recall  the  trip  as  made  up  wholly  of  red 
letter  days,  and  as  one  of  his  life's  most 
enduring  and  pleasantest  memories. 


141 


ACKNOWLEDGMENT 

The  thanks  of  the  Chicago  Commercial 
Club  are  specially  tendered  to  all  the  gentle- 
men who  so  cordially  assisted  in  the  enter- 
tainment of  the  tourists  at  the  various 
cities  upon  the  route.  The  many  cour- 
tesies received  at  their  hands  greatly  en- 
hanced the  pleasure  of  the  journey. 
Among  such  were  the  following  commit- 
tees which  were  specially  charged  with  such 
duties : 

J.  J.  Byrne,  of  Los  Angeles,  under  the 
instructions  of  President  Ripley,  was  a 
committee  of  the  whole  from  Chicago  to 
San  Francisco,  being  more  than  half  the 
time  occupied  by  the  trip,  and  his  unspar- 
ing courtesies  were  appreciated  by  all. 

The  Phoenix  committee  consisted  of 
Dwight  B.  Heard,  S.  M.  McCowan,  J. 
143 


Earnest  Walker,  B.  Heyman,  J.  W.  Ben- 
ham. 

At  San  Bernardino  and  Redlands  a  large 
committee  of  citizens,  whose  names  were 
not  furnished  the  secretary. 

At  Los  Angeles  the  committee  consist- 
ed of  all  the  officers  and  members  of  the 
Chamber  of  Commerce. 

At  San  Francisco  a  banquet  was  given 
us  under  the  auspices  of  the  Board  of 
Trade,  the  Chamber  of  Commerce,  the 
Manufacturers*  and  Producers'  Associa- 
tion, the  Merchants*  Association,  and  the 
Produce  Exchange.  The  executive  com- 
mittee consisted  of  Charles  Bundschu,  W. 
M.  Bunker,  J.  P.  Currier,  A.  Sbarboro,  F. 
H.  Wheeler,  Richard  Freund,  Secretary. 

At  Portland  a  large  committee  of  citizens, 
among  whom  were  Senator  George  H. 
Williams,  Mayor  Rowe,  Governor  Geer, 
Representative  Thomas  H.  Tongue  and 
Banker  Ladd  had  charge  of  the  entertain- 
ment. 

At  Seattle  the  trip  to  Snoqualmie  Falls 
144 


was  in  charge  of  Charles  H.  Baker,  H.  D. 
Baker  and  W.  A.  Doble. 

The  Dutch  supper  at  Seattle  was  in 
charge  of  a  committee  of  which  Josiah  Col- 
lins was  chairman,  and  the  other  members 
of  the  committee  were  Senator  John  B. 
Allen,  Captain  Green  and  Colonel  J.  H. 
Lewis. 

At  Tacoma  the  entertainment  committee 
consisted  of  Mayor  Louis  D.  Campbell, 
F.  A.  Perkins,  General  James  M.  Ashton, 
J.  C.  Drake,  Major  O.  B.  Hayden,  W. 
D.  Pearce,  C.  H.  Hyde,  George  Browne, 
and  General  A.  Gorton  Bowles. 

At  Salt  Lake  City  the  entertainment 
was  in  charge  of  the  Utah  Association  of 
Credit  Men,  represented  by  the  following 
committee:  George  C.  Odell,  Chairman, 
Governor  Heber  M.  Wells,  Mayor 
Thompson,  Heber  J.  Grant,  W.  F.  Mc- 
Cormick,  J.  A,  Graham,  George  A.  Lowe, 
J.  E.  Dooley,  J.  G.  McDonald,  George 
V.  Wallace,  C.  S.  Burton,  S.  V.  Schelp, 
Edward  Merrill,  C.  S.  Strevell,  George  A. 
145 


Snow,  H.  B.  Prout,  Thomas  R.  Cutler, 
C.  A.  Quigley,  L.  S.  Hills,  T.  G.  Webber, 
and  Spencer  Clawson. 

At  Denver  the  entertainment  was  in 
charge  of  a  committee  of  citizens  of  which 
C.  S.  Morey  was  chairman,  and  C.  S.  Wil- 
son represented  the  Chamber  of  Com- 
merce. 


UNIVERSITY 
CAUF0t\!ll> 


146 


PRINTED  BY  R.  R.  DONNELLEY 
AND  SONS  COMPANY,  AT  THE 
LAKESIDE  PRESS,  CHICAGO,  ILL. 


rf 


